DIY: Step-by-Step Guide to
Install Slate Tiles

Professionals can install slate tiles very well. However, home improvements done with own hands give unimaginable satisfaction to many. You have already got slate floorings done by professionals. However, slate patios too attract you a lot but you might not be interested in spending too much money right at the moment. Or you might have been longing for making a slate tiles design yourself. Whatever may be the reason, the fact is that installing slate tiles is a tedious but not a difficult job. Moreover, you can do it yourself with the help of little creativity and a lots of patience. Here is the step-by-step guide for installing slate tiles on your porch.

• Draw your design on a graph paper. Take exact measurements of the work area. One square of the graph paper will represent half ft or one ft. This will, in turn, depend on how intricate your design is. The more lower the measurement, the more larger will be the design which will lead to a very big project. To begin with, scale the graph paper to 1 ft/graph square.
• Make a border of plain slate tiles around the edge of the area so that you know the corners of your design. Fill any irregular angles or indentations with plain tiles to make the work area even and squared. If you are going to use different colored tiles, use color pencils to show that color in the design.
• After making the whole design, buy your supplies so that you exactly know what and how much will you need to complete the project
• Before going to the slate stone suppliers, make a list of total number of tiles you'll need. Categorized it into the number of different shaped tiles that will be needed for example, square tiles, triangular tiles, half tiles etc.
• If the slate stone supplier or the store, from whom you are buying the tiles give the cutting services, get it done from them. Slate cutting is not a very difficult job, you can do it yourself too. If so, buy a miter box and a saw also so that you can cut the tiles. Even if you get the tiles cut from store, at times, you will need to shave a little off or if one of the tiles breaks in the process, you can re-cut other instead of going to the store every time.
• The surface on which tiles will be installed should be smooth and level. If the surface is already tiled or rough, decide whether you'll install tiles over the existing floor, tear the floor up, or use something to cover it and then install your tiles. If you decide to tear out the old floor, get the tools and chemicals required for the purpose.
• Different surfaces like wooden floor, concrete or a stone floor, all require different adhesives. Explore about the same by asking the supplier or other experts.
• Clean the area to start your work. Mop the work area the night before so that it dries before you start work the next day. Sweep once again just before you start working.
• Keep your tiles, design plans, adhesives, saw and miter, and other supplies out of your work area, but within easy reach.
• Start by working in smaller sections, like a foot or two. Select any one corner but always work from the outside in. Don't ever start from anywhere middle.
• Use a trowel to spread a little adhesive on a small area and then place the tile on it.
• Follow the graph paper design and repeat this process for each tile until all the tiles have been installed.
• Always work in one direction by dividing the floor into columns and rows. Complete one column or row before starting a new one.
• To start with, make a simple design. Keep straight edges in your design so that you can use slate stone edges like squares, triangles, or other straight edged shapes. Curved tiles may not fit properly in the beginning. Use octagon or pentagon if you need a circle.
• Coat the finished floor with ceramic paint to add a wax free shine to it.

Once the slate floor is laid in place, no sealant is required. However, if required, one can choose a matte or shiny finish available at any stone dealer. One must not try and put a sealer over a floor that has been oiled or waxed unless it has already completely cured and the sealer dried. If the floor is walked upon before this time, marks will occur that shall be not just difficult but also costly to remove.